Tack Tip: Keepin' It Smooth

Is your sandpaper "organized" like this?

Glorious grocery bags stuffed with a variety of sandpaper grits, where you have to dig like an archeologist to find that piece of 320 grit you are after? 

After 20-something years of digging through bags, I decided, "No more!"

All grit families are now in their own clearly labeled bag! 

(ex: 100's bag contains 100, 150, and 180 grit) 

Other types are in their own bag: sticky-backed sandpaper made for orbital sanders and emery boards for fingernails.

Emery boards are great for removing the rough edge on Rio Rondo photo etched buckles after cutting them off of the sheets!

These are called "sanding sticks", from metalsmithing class. These could also come in handy for some model horse aplications.

These are created by taking a straight (not warped) wooden paint stirring stick and wrapping and entire sheet of sandpaper around it. 

Once the exposed sandpaper is used up, carefully rip the top layer off for a brand new layer to use! 

(It helps to label the grit on the stick, too!)

Instead of having a drawer filled with grocery bags full of sandpaper bits, I can now easily identify the grit I need and quickly pull a piece right out!

Sandpaper grits: 

Low numbers = coarse grit 

(ex: 80, 100)

Higher numbers = smoother grit 

(ex: 320, 400, can go up to at least 1500. 

800 and higher barely feel like sandpaper to the touch.)

Low numbers are often used for removing larger rough areas, and higher grits are for finishing and removing course lines left from the lower number grits.

Typical grits used in the model horse hobby are often within the 100 to 400 or 600 range (customizing, tack making, etc.)

To remove deeper scratches of 100 grit, it is a good idea to use a few different grits to end with a finished product. Next move to 220, 320, then 400 for a smooth finish.

Happy sanding, and don't forget your dust mask!!

Tack Tip: Dude, where's my dye?

Do you have to look at nearly every bottle of dye and leather finish to find the bottle that you are looking for?

There is a better way!

Label all of the lids, so you know what is inside! 

You can write directly on the white lids with permanent marker, and you can put a label or piece of masking tape on the black lids to label them.

On products that add color to leather, it is helpful to not only write the name of the color, but also what type of product it is- dye, stain, etc.

Now you will waste less time digging through bottles!

BONUS TIP: Take a Tandy catalog and pull out the page(s) with the leather dye colors. 

Keep that page with your dyes for a quick color reference chart!

Tack Tip: Test Scraps and a New Saddle

There is nothing worse than trying a new technique on a project and it just doesn't work.

When trying something new (or even if you're experienced at it), one of the best things you can do is practice on some scrap leather.

I haven't made a Western saddle since 2013, so I needed to practice carving.

(I carve freehand on things this small)

I had been doing full-sized carving for a while, so switching back to carving in model-sized scale was tricky!

The lower scrap was just coming out too large for what I wanted, so I tried again on the top scrap.

Success!

 Practice pieces have a second fantastic use- testing out leather dyes and/or finishes!!

It's always a good idea to test out leather dyes and such before putting it on a project, to make sure it is the color/look that you were hoping for. I needed a different shade of brown, and I really liked the test piece on the right for my new saddle.

Stitch marked edges.

Carved fenders

Carving upper skirt (my swivel knife is shown)

Ready for color!!

Assembled quickly in time for a show, and I will go back and add more small details in later.

Reserve Champion Ranch Horse at Mid-Atlantic Regionals (MAR) last weekend for Bar Skippin Star, who wore the brand new set.

Practice paid off, allowing me to figure out what I wanted and needed to do to create my project successfully!

National Model Tack Month - April 2017 & NaMoPaiMo

February 2017 was "NaMoPaiMo" / National Model Painting Month, where over 300 people joined a challenge to get a model horse painted within the month of February.  Over 200 people completed their declared horse to paint, and some people painted even more models!

The wonderful comraderie and learning experience from the NaMoPaiMo facebook group created interest in starting National Model Tack Month! Here is the facebook page that was started for the group:  https://www.facebook.com/groups/1864585590421445/

It will be a fun experience of learning and sharing techniques and ideas. If you are interested in participating in the challenge, join the National Model Tack Month facebook group! In March, declare what your personal tack making goal will be to make. In April, begin making tack! Sharing progress photos or tack making tips during the month is encouraged. Even if you are late to the tack making party, you can still join in on the fun!

My goal for the month is to make a traditional-sized fully carved Western saddle with no silver, except for possibly some conchos. I haven't made one since 2013, so it's a great reason to get me making tack again.

I participated in NaMoPaiMo as well. My goal was to try airbrushing for the second time (first time on my own), and try masking with blue painter's tape. I did successfully complete my model in February and I am happy with it! It's not perfect, but it is a large painting achievement for myself.

Here are some photos of my painting journey:

I think he just might need a new saddle... :]

Tack Tip: Organize tools with a magnet bar!

This item has worked out great for my work space: a magnet bar! I have a bulletin board on the wall above my desk. My magnet bar is mounted on that, within easy reach.

I put frequently used tools on the bar. In this photo, I have a hole punch, burnisher, awl, pliers, cutters, leather punch, scissors, and there is even a chasing hammer (metalsmithing) up there sometimes, too. The utility knives just happen to sit nicely on top.

The greatest thing about this is that I don't have to get up or dig around for a tool when I'm in the middle of a project- I can just reach up and grab it. Saves time and aggravation!! It also keeps the extra tools off of my desk. If I only need a particular tool once, I will put it right back up on the bar when I'm done with it. I will have to upgrade to a 2nd bar eventually!

Magnet bars can be found at home improvement stores and Harbor Freight often has them on sale for a few dollars! http://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-magnetic-tool-holder-61199.html

Tack Tip: Recycle containers to hold small parts

Use small containers to contain small pieces while you are working. (I'm sure that we have all had those moments when we put the small hardware piece on the table, only to find that it has gone missing when we go to use it!)

I like using ketchup/condiment containers when working with hardware, especially when I'm cutting apart Rio Rondo photo etched parts- I can cut them right into the container and can put the lid on it if needed. Cutting small items off directly into the container can also sometimes help to keep things from firing off into space when they are cut, never to be seen again! :]

Yogurt cups are great for things like holding small scraps of leather to keep your work space clean.

If you need something a little larger, single serve cups from things like Velveeta Shells & Cheese or Rice-a-Roni work great, too!

Tack Tip: Is spilling leather dye your worst nightmare?

Try keeping the bottle of dye (or other product) in a mug like this to keep it from falling over! A roll of tape will also work in a pinch, as it should keep the bottle from completely falling over. 

Don't have any old mugs handy? Stop at a thrift store or dollar store to pick up some inexpensive mugs!